As we age, our skin slowly starts to develop fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. Are you wondering how to maintain youthful skin and combat signs of aging? This blog delves into optimizing skin health – topically!
Ingredients, Essential for Slowing Down the Aging Process
Scientific research constantly seeks strong ingredients with promising effects on skin health and youthful appearance. Below, we’ll highlight some of the most popular skincare ingredients backed by science, showing how they benefit the skin based on recent studies.
When you read the labels on skincare products, make sure to search for these ingredients:
1. Retinoids
Retinoids are commonly used in anti-aging skincare, because they promote stem cell differentiation and increase the number of the cells in the skin. They promote wound healing and overall skin health, and protect and support the skin barrier function. They also reduce the formation of damaging AGEs caused by glycation, improve mitochondrial function, and get rid of senescent cells, therefore help to prevent the visible signs of aging.
Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are the forms of retinoids which are frequently found in skincare products. They’re not as strong as tretinoin; but they are still effective in reducing wrinkles and improving the appearance of photo-aged skin. Plus, they’re less irritative.
Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by boosting collagen production, while also fading age spots and soften rough texture on the skin.
Due to the possibility for skin dryness and irritation, skincare specialists advise to gradually increase the % of the used product. Also, sunscreen is essential during the day as retinoids heighten skin sensitivity to sunlight.
2. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old, and therefore it plays a crucial role in skin aging. As we age, our cells produce less HA, making the skin drier, thinner, and looser, leading to wrinkles and other noticeable changes. Skin aging also involves a decrease in skin moisture.
Hyaluronic acid acts as a humectant, drawing and retaining water molecules, thereby moisturizing the skin and enhancing its texture, diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. It’s a substance of natural origin, found in the human body. However, HA renewal tends to slow down with age and when it is exposed to environmental factors. Therefore, it’s important to early start maintaining optimal HA turnover, to prevent the visible signs of aging. Also, the efficacy of hyaluronic acid depends mostly on its molecular weight, claiming different effects like hydrating and antiaging.
3. Minerals in Thermal Water
Thermal water is basically water, sourced from natural springs, which contains minerals that nourish the skin, it is also rich in trace elements, numerous minerals, and has a neutral pH. It can provide a lot of skin benefits, including soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Some minerals cannot be synthesized by the body, which is why it is important to get them elsewhere, like from supplements or diet. While they provide a good foundation, specific creams are vital for maintaining healthy and radiant skin. A lot of scientific studies talk about the importance of mineral creams for skin health.
Minerals offer many skin benefits, including cellular communication, antioxidant properties, and anti-inflammatory effects.
The most commonly used minerals in skincare include zinc, iron, magnesium, calcium, potassium, selenium, sodium, and copper.
4. Vitamins
Vitamins are micronutrients, classified either as water-soluble, like vitamin C and B, or fat-soluble, such as A, E, and K. These are also the most commonly used vitamins in skincare, since they have strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Products containing alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) and retinol (vitamin A) are effective in treating photoaging. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps treating acne breakouts, and L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) helps to reduce hyperpigmentation. Combining these vitamins might work even better rather than using them individually.
5. Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are hydroxy acids are used to improve the overall skin’s appearance and can be found in different cosmetic products, like cleansers, toners, moisturizers, exfoliants, etc. According to studies, they can help treat the signs of aging, reduce wrinkles, promote hydration, skin elasticity, and tone.
There are two main types of hydroxy acids: alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA). AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits. They are claimed to improve the appearance of the skin and can be found in the form of skin peels to treat acne, acne scars, melasma, hyperpigmentation (patches of darker skin), roughness of the skin, seborrhea (rash with red and itchy spots), aging spots and enlarged pores.
The AHAs stimulate the renewal of the epidermis, they also stimulate the production of collagen by acting on fibroblasts and increase the skin’s moisture.
Glycolic acid is the most common AHA and it is typically found in skincare products at concentrations of 10-15%.
BHAs on the other hand, are soluble in oil, which is why they are primarily used to treat acne. They can get easily absorbed deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. They are also used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin and improve the skin’s overall texture, plus, they are less irritating than AHAs.
The most common BHA is salicylic acid, and it is typically the most effective in the concentrations of 1-2%.
6. Peptides
Peptides, also known as polypeptides, are skincare ingredients that are naturally present in our skin, and are relatively new on the market, but they’re definitely worth your attention.
Collagen, for example, consists of three polypeptide chains, so incorporating peptides in your skincare routine can stimulate collagen production in your skin, which can result in firmer, smoother and more youthful skin.
Your body naturally produces collagen, however its production tends to get smaller over time, which then leads to the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. Peptides are a good alternative to the collagen molecule, which is too big to penetrate the skin. They are able to get absorbed into the skin, where they can be utilized by the body. Besides anti-aging properties, there are several other benefits when including peptides in your skincare regimen, such as improved skin barrier, reduced wrinkles, and reduced inflammation.
References
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Lopez-Otin, C et al. Loss of MT1-MMP causes cell senescence and nuclear defects which can be reversed by retinoic acid. The Embo Journal. 2015 Jul 14; 34(14): 1875–1888
Varani J et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Nov;115(5): 972-9
Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006 Dec;1(4):327-48
De Berti R. Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? [Internet]. 2022. Available from: https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles
Jegasothy SM et al. Efficacy of a new topical nano-hyaluronic acid in humans. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014 Nov;7(11):27-9
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Is Thermal Water the Secret to Healthy, Hydrated Skin? [Internet]. Available from: https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/thermal-water#takeaway
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Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod.2012.7(1):9-10.
Peptides and Your Skin Care Routine [Internet]. Available from: https://www.healthline.com/health/peptides-for-skin#takeaway