Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids in Skin Care - Asya Grafy Bio Institute

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids in Skin Care

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids in Skin Care

As individuals, we experience different levels of sensitivity to ingredients found in various skincare  products. That is why it is so important to educate ourselves in terms of the product’s ingredients  and what they specifically mean for our skin in terms of effects in benefits. 

If your goal is to get clear, more even-toned skin, you need to do more than just cleanse your face  – you need to incorporate hydroxy acids into your daily skincare routine. Alpha hydroxy acids  (AHA) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are hydroxy acids that people use to treat skin conditions  such as acne. They are also used for cosmetic purposes to improve the overall skin’s appearance  and can be found in a variety of cosmetic products (cleansers, toners, moisturizers, peels,  masks…), but choosing the most appropriate product to get a specific result can sometimes be a  little challenging, especially with so many products on the market. 

Let’s first explore the science behind the main differences between AHA and BHA, which  conditions they treat, and then find the best way to use them.

Beta Hydroxy Acid vs. Alpha Hydroxy Acid

AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits and they include five naturally occurring  organic acids: glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and maleic acid. They are  claimed to improve the appearance of the skin and can be found in the form of skin peels to treat  acne, acne scars, melasma, hyperpigmentation (patches of darker skin), the roughness of the  skin, seborrhea (rash with red and itchy spots), aging spots and enlarged pores.

The AHAs stimulate the renewal of the epidermis, they also stimulate the production of collagen  by acting on fibroblasts and increasing the skin’s moisture1,2,3. 

BHAs on the other hand, are oil-soluble, which is why they are primarily used for acne, as they  can easily get deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. They are also  used in cosmetic products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin and  improve the skin’s overall texture. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, but we also use tropic  acid, trethocanic acid, and beta-hydroxybutyric acid1,3.

Recommended by our experts

Is the BIO SOLUTION collection, which provides a high content of the latest game-changing  skincare ingredients giving your skin immediate, noticeable improvement of texture, boosting  hydration as well reducing fine lines and wrinkles. The Bio Solutions multi acid 10 % AHA – 2  % BHA gel dramatically improves the overall appearance of the skin by smoothing fine lines and  wrinkles, refining rough texture, brightening tone, unclogging pores, and enhancing hydration. This concentrated multi-acid formulation dramatically decreases multiple signs of aging, increases  hydration, erases sun damage, refines texture, and unclogs pores. 

10 % of AHA fruit acids blend containing 32 % lactic acid, 17 % glycolic acid, 6 % citric acid, 1  % malic acid, and 1 % tartaric acid enhance cellular proliferation while simultaneously increasing  the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycan, as well as reversing cutaneous atrophy, for a  smooth, brighter complexion with a diminished appearance of wrinkles. 

2 % of BHA, natural salicylic acid derived from Willow bark, acts as an effective antimicrobial  agent useful for problem skin, ideal for reducing inflammation and associated redness, increases  cellular renewal by promoting exfoliation, creating a smooth skin with reduction of fine lines and  wrinkles. While the cucumber extract is rich in vitamins and oligo-elements, which help with  improving the complexion and health of the skin, and has anti-inflammatory, cooling, and tonic  properties that soothe skin irritations and reduce swelling while helping balance the sebum  secretion and tighten open pores. 

One of the most common benefits of hydroxy acids is also their ability to improve sun-damaged  skin. to measure improvements in sun-damaged skin, doctors and estheticians check skin  roughness, changes in skin color, and collagen density.  

Both AHAs and BHAs work as exfoliants, but they work in different ways. AHAs work by reducing  the concentration of calcium ions in the skin, this promotes the shedding of skin cells at the  surface. BHAs are also a skin peeling agent, but salicylic acid has additional antibacterial  properties, which makes them amazing ingredients for acne-prone skin. 

Compared with AHA glycolic acid, salicylic acid causes less irritation. Another important  discovery is that BHAs increase the skin’s resistance to ultraviolet skin damage1,2,3.

For what skin types are they suitable?

AHAs are often marketed as safe for all skin types, but you’ll still want to rather avoid them if you  have extremely dry and sensitive skin, or you may need to gradually work them up to daily use to  avoid skin irritation. BHAs are most suitable for combination to oily skin, as they go deep into the  hair follicles to dry out excess oil and dead skin cells to unclog pores. Lower concentrations of  

BHA may also be used to help calm sensitive skin, or if you want to reduce rosacea-related  redness3. 

Our tip – If you’re primarily looking for dry skin relief or anti-aging benefits, try an AHA. If you want  to tackle acne, look at BHAs.

How to use AHAs? 

All AHAs are really good exfoliants. Still, the effects and uses can slightly vary between types of  acids. How much a product with AHA exfoliates the skin depends on the concentration of the  AHA ingredient, its acidity, and other ingredients found in it. Their concentration in cosmetic  products varies between 10 and 15%. to reduce the risk of irritation or other side effects, it is  usually advised to apply new products with AHAs every other day until your skin gets used to  them. No matter which AHA you choose, it is crucial to wear sunscreen every day to prevent  burns and age spots that can appear because of the strong exfoliating effects3,4. 

Glycolic acid provides significant exfoliation. This makes it an all-around treatment for many skin  concerns. And thanks to its antimicrobial properties, it may even help prevent acne breakouts3. *Daily application of glycolic acid to the skin of the forearm resulted in an increase in the thickness  of the dermis. Another study observed an increased fibroblast proliferation and collagen  production after glycolic acid application1. 

Lactic acid is another common AHA. Unlike other AHAs made from fruits, lactic acid is made from  lactose in milk. It’s also known for its significant exfoliation and anti-aging effects3. 

Citric acid: Its main purpose is to neutralize the skin’s pH levels and to even out rough patches of  skin. Citric acid makes a good serum or toner used before applying a moisturizer. It may even  help work with sunscreen to provide maximum UV protection3. 

How to use BHAs?  

According to the CIR Expert Panel, products containing BHA, such as salicylic acid, are safe if  their formulation was designed to avoid both skin irritation and increased sun sensitivity, although  you should still wear sunscreen every day to prevent further sun damage1. 

Salicylic acid is the most commonly used BHA. Its concentrations range between 0,5 and 5%,  depending on the product. It is a go-to ingredient for treating acne, and it can also help calm  down redness and inflammation3.

Main outtakes

AHAs and BHAs share similar benefits. You can obtain some level of exfoliation  from each one. Topically applied hydroxy acids are capable of interacting with  many basic biological processes that occur in human skin. They can affect and  modify the processes of cell proliferation, and induction of apoptosis and can act  as antioxidants/chelators, influence the skin barrier function, and act as  moisturizers. 

In conclusion, if you’re looking for an all-inclusive anti-aging treatment, then an AHA may be the  best fit, BHA on the other side may be best to go with if you want to calm down inflammation and  get rid of acne3,4. 

References 

1. Caporuscio, J. Understanding the difference between AHA and BHA for skin care.  MedicalNewsToday. 2021 

2. Zvonar Pobirk, A. Hidroksi kisline. Study material for class Kozmetični izdelki, study programme  Cosmetology. 2020 

3. Cherney, K. AHA vs BHA: What’s the difference? Healthline. 2019 

4. Kornhauser, A. Coelho, S. G. Hearing, V. J. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification,  mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2010 (3)  135-141

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